Caballo, New Mexico

February 14–18, 2022

I’ve really enjoyed the way towns in New Mexico have names like Caballo and Cuchillo, which sound intriguing in Spanish but wouldn’t sound so great in English: welcome to the towns of Horse and Knife. Ol’ Horse, New Mexico, is a tiny town just outside Truth or Consequences, which makes up for any number of boring names elsewhere in the state. I stayed in Caballo Lake State Park but spent most of my time in T or C, as the locals call it.

My friend Mary passed along a recommendation from her friend Tracy, leading me to rent a private pool at Riverbend Hot Springs, right on the Rio Grande. I got the Tierra room, closed on three sides but open to the majestic river and the people-free hillside beyond. I’m not really a “clothing optional” person, generally speaking, but in this luxurious and private setting I took advantage of the freedom and sank into the stone pool for a magical au naturel soak. T or C is a town of hot springs, and I think Riverbend might be the nicest spot possible. The wind whipped and the river churned by, but in the 105º water I was warm as toast.

I also spent a few evenings taking advantage of the free wifi and delicious beer at Truth or Consequences Brewing Co. I was impressed and charmed by Tara, the sweet and beautiful bartender who did a killer job despite having the use of only one hand. I’ve done that job—it’s hard enough even with two hands! Part of me wanted to move to T or C and try to become her new best friend (she was super cool and we appear to have the same taste in music), but I eventually had to leave the murals, hot springs, and artsy locals behind and move along to Arizona.

Side note: all the state campgrounds in New Mexico have little signs on their electric hookups warning you not to overload the circuits. Fine, fine, but why Hobo as the font of choice? As any fellow type nerd who’s visited the Southwest already knows, this region loves Hobo, and honestly I’m having a little “overload” myself. So, maybe it was a fitting font choice, after all. (She says, pushing her glasses further up the bridge of her nose with one finger.)






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About Me

I’m a graphic designer, musician, and editor whose job went remote in March 2020. In mid-2021, I sold my house, bought a camper, and decided to hit the road with my two dogs. My homebase is Vermont, and I’ll return eventually, but for now I’m going mobile.
About My Camper

For the first few months of my trip, I was driving Pierogi, a 2014 Toyota Tacoma, and pulling Donna, a 2021 Sun-Lite Classic 16BH camper. Partway through the trip, though, I realized I love this life and wanted to up my game, so I traded in my sweet little setup for a 2022 Thor Sequence camper van, Vincent Van Go(gh). Less in the way of vintage charm, but he rides sooooo fine.